Your mast rake will depend on the mast you have, whether it is a Selden mast or a Holt-Allen. The Holt-Allen masts are stiffer so they require full spreader rake to make them bend. The Selden masts have more bend and will therefore give you more performance, from a racing standpoint. What I mean is - they are faster.

Mast rake from mast tip to transom on a Holt-Allen mast should be 243 inches, rig tension should be 22 lbs on the Loos gauge.

Yes. Sail numbers can be red, green, blue and black. When you race, the race committee will always prefer black numbers as they are easier to read and black sail numbers fade less.

Your sail number should match the boat number. the boat number can be determined from the serial number that is found on the transom of the boat. Here's an example of a Martin 16 serial number: CAZBL16138F505. The middle numbers after CAZBL16 is "138" which is the hull number and the serial number. When you order your new sails, In this case in the order you would specify to put "138" on the sails.

Also called a "draft stripe"; It is a horizontal line that is used as a visual on the shape of the sail. They are usually in the top 3rd of the mainsail. This helps you look at the leech of the sail to see the draft depth and draft location.

Draft stripes are generally used in larger keelboats, not so often in sailboats such as the Martin 16.

Absolutely, we are your source of everything Martin 16. We provide a variety of sails such as:

• Mylar/Pentex race sails
• Dacrons race sails (most popular)
• Dacron club sails (ideal for every day use)

We also provide Martin 16 spinnakers.

This is important information for identifying your boat, insurance purposes and to know your hull number. The serial number is located on the transom (rear of the hull). The format is: AC BBB 16 xxx A yy zz

• AC - country of manufacture (CA - Canada)
• BBB – Builder (ZVB = Mystere Composites; ZBL = Abbott Boats)
• 16 – Martin 16 sloop
• xxx – hull number (sail number)
• A, B, C… – month of manufacture (A = Jan)
• yy – Production model year (5 = 2005; 12 = 2012)
• zz – year of manufacture (12 = 2012)

There is a manufacturer's identification code, you can find a listing here...>>

For example:

• ZYJ: Martin Yachts
• ZBL: Abbott Boats
• ZVB: Mystere Composites

Count the number of times the line goes down to the bridle, if once then 1:1 if twice with bullet blocks, then 2:1.

Within the fibreglass there is an aluminum plate. The screws and bolts go through the glass and through the plate.

This means that the steering will be more solid and there is less risk of glass rot.

Likely it was marine grade plywood. This means that after many years of usage the transom can rot out and need to be rebuilt.

Likely your fibreglass in the transom is delaminated, and you are crunching into the glass. This means you need to rebuild the transom. Cut out the complete transom and rebuild it with fresh glass/cloth. Build in an aluminum plate inside the glass to make it more solid. You have the opportunity, seize it.

The older way of running the seat bottom line was under the lip of the seat. KAPE's approach is different/newer. We put a ferrule bushing under the seat in the middle and run the line through the bushing. In this way the line can no longer pop out. Problem gone!