Ask the Expert

When I round A-mark (windward), and release my main and jib, the jib boom does not go out easily, I feel like I have to push it out with a paddle! Even in medium wind strengths.

The line type you may be using for the jib might be too thick, and/or the wrong line type. The line may also be strung incorrectly through the cheek blocks and blocks. Check the line, trace the line.

Now I saw a weird one recently where the jib boom swivel was mounted upside down on the deck. Putting it right side up made a huge difference!

When the boat is at the dock, the boom falls out of the gooseneck on the older boats but not on the newer boats. How come?

The newer boats use a different mast/boom called Selden. The Selden gooseneck has a clip. The boom clicks into place on the gooseneck so it will not fall out. The Holt Allen masts have no clip and the boom is held on by the boom vang. When the boat is sitting at the dock it is important to have the boom vangs tight.

How can I help my boat point better?

Many things.

1. Make sure your main bridle is the correct length, if it is too short it is a problem. The jib on the jib boom should be relatively tight with a 4 inch slot. It is common for people to use a "racing shackle" i.e. a smaller shackle for racing or even line to attach the jib.
2. Is the jib halyard up all the way?
3. Is the mast tuned?
4. Is the rig tight? Forestay tight?
5. Is the jib wire tight in the sail?
6. Are your battens in the main and jib the correct type?

And then there is sailing.

• It is good to know when to use 2:1 versus 1:1. The sheets should be pulled in enough.
• The jib/main slot between the sails has a happy spacing.
• Look at your wind indicators on the sails, to ensure they are flying happily.

The seat line at the bottom keeps slipping out and I end up sitting on the steering lines, hampering my control over the boat and steering. How can I fix this?

The older way of running the seat bottom line was under the lip of the seat. KAPE's approach is different/newer. We put a ferrule bushing under the seat in the middle and run the line through the bushing. In this way the line can no longer pop out. Problem gone!

When I sail downwind I have a tough time getting my top batten to flip. Any suggestions?

Check that your top batten is the correct type. They should be super flexible, like Laser battens. If you take it out of the sail and flex it, does it bend easily?

I have nuts and bolts in my transom holding the pintle and gudgeons in, yet when I tighten the bolts I hear a crunching sound.

Likely your fibreglass in the transom is delaminated, and you are crunching into the glass. This means you need to rebuild the transom. Cut out the complete transom and rebuild it with fresh glass/cloth. Build in an aluminum plate inside the glass to make it more solid. You have the opportunity, seize it.

I have clunking in my steering, how can I fix this?

Couple of things to look at:

1. Are the pintles and gudgeons solidly attached to the stern?
2. Is the fit of the rudderhead snug onto the pintles and gudgeons?
3. Does the rudderblade stay firmly in the rudderhead?
4. Does the rudderhead rock forward and back on the pintles and gudgeons?
5. Does the rudderhead rock laterally on the pintles and gudgeons?

• Pintles and gudgeons can be shimmed.
• Rudderblades can be shimmed.
• All bolts can be tightened.
• Steering lines should be amsteel. They should be a small diameter. They should be tight. The steering alignment needs to be totally centered.
• Avoid using straps, go bowline to hitches.

How do I know how my boat was built for reinforcing in the transom?

Likely it was marine grade plywood. This means that after many years of usage the transom can rot out and need to be rebuilt.

I have a clunking in my keel, what causes this?

Many things, start with checking that the acorn nuts at the top of the daggerboard plate are super tight.

Check that the daggerboard plate is tightly attached, are there acorns on all bolts? Look under the plate.

Locktite is your friend.

Are the recessed holes in the bottom plate that the top plate nuts sit into tight? Is it snug?

When the boat is out of the water on a crane with the daggerboard/keel bulb down, grab the keel bulb and see if it rocks back and forth. If so you will need to tighten the bolts holding the keelbulb onto the daggerboard. The nuts are recessed in the keelbulb. They are bonded into place, so you will need to dig out the bonding material so that you can gain access to the nuts. Then tighten the nuts with a big torque wrench with as much strength as you can muster. Locktight is your friend. Then seal the nuts into the keelbulb again.

How is the reinforcing done in the transom?

Within the fibreglass there is an aluminum plate. The screws and bolts go through the glass and through the plate.

This means that the steering will be more solid and there is less risk of glass rot.

I keep my vang tight but it sometimes still slips out. What to do?

If you have a 2:1 purchase on the upper vang, it will stay in more. If you have the original setup with 1:1 it can still fall out. Upgrade to 2:1.

How do I know what kind of purchase I have on my mainsheet?

Count the number of times the line goes down to the bridle, if once then 1:1 if twice with bullet blocks, then 2:1.